Today I took the same navigational approach as yesterday - figure out the general direction of the things you want to see, and just start walking. When I hit a dead end, I switched alleys and kept trying. The only rule is to keep walking until I find something worth staring at for a while. So far this approach hasn't failed me - I managed to find the Vlatadon Monastery mostly by chance after about an hour of walking in what might have been giant zig-zags. It is located just opposite the street that follows the giant castle wall, and would be very easy to miss if you don't keep a sharp eye out.
The Monastery itself isn't very large, but it has a commanding view of the city and the port below. When I walked in I was greeted by a small courtyard filled with trees and benches, with a bookstore on my right and the 14th century church (Catholikon, in Greek) on my left. Farther in on the right, with the Catholikon on my left, was a small chapel. The end farthest from the entrance gate is an open balcony overlooking Thessaloniki and its port.
I spent nearly two hours in the wooded courtyard and on the steps of the Catholikon, reading 'Grace for the Moment', my small bible (thanks Chelsey!), praying, and thinking. After a full day in airports, 5 days in Athens, and 2 in Thessaloniki, noise and bustle had become 'normal' to me, and the solitude and relative isolation of the Monastery were just what I needed to re-center myself. The holiness of that place is almost palpable, like you could reach out and take a small piece of it for yourself to enjoy during a trying time in your life. Perhaps that's what the memory of the place really is - your own small piece of God's harmony.
Although God is present in all places, it is easiest for my feeble soul to hear and feel him closest to me in the quiet ones. I hadn't actually planned on staying in Vlatadon long, but I actually had a hard time leaving even after 2 hours there.
The saying goes "The Lord works in mysterious ways" - but I am often guilty of forgetting that God also works in obvious ways. I prayed that God would guide both my feet and my soul during my travels and my life, and less than 15 minutes later I heard the first (native) English speaking voices I'd heard since arriving in Thessaloniki. Here I met Helen, John (both from Australia, but of Greek descent), and Alicia (from Kentucky!). After they got their fill of the monastery we all followed the ancient castle wall to a small shopping area that is home to a great gyro stand, as well as a gelateria (think gelato and coffee). Alicia was kind enough to our lunch, which was ordered with the help of Helen's fluent Greek. John explained some of the changes he has seen during his various visits to Greece - changes in immigration, politics, and even culture. I haven't gotten many chances to talk to anyone knowledgeable on these topics, and I really enjoyed his commentary.
Helen and John were kind enough to let me bum a ride in their taxi to the White Tower, an old fortification that sits maybe 50 meters from the sea and 5-6 km from the monastery. Here they dropped me off and I began my unaccompanied wanderings. After posing for a picture with Alexander the Great (the city is named for his half sister) I decided to start walking in the general direction of 'uphill.'
It is impossible to wander very far in Old Thessaloniki without finding some kind of ruins, and my walk back toward the castle wall provided me with plenty of fascinating ruins to explore and photograph. I can't name most of them, and I doubt that most natives of Thessaloniki could, either. the ones I can name include the Rotunda (I have no idea what it is for, I'm going to explore it tomorrow when it's actually open), an arch with a Greek name I failed to photograph, the Church of Sotir, and the Catacombs of Agios Ioannis.
The catacombs were open, and were actually my first experience inside an Orthodox holy structure (The church at the Monastery was closed in the morning, and I could only explore the courtyards and areas surrounding it). The entrance to the catacombs is covered by a chapel (did I mention that there are chapels everywhere in Greece? Even surrounding churches!). The chapel contains an offering box, several rows of seats, and what looks like enough space to hold mass. Descending into the catacombs via the slick and age worn marble stairs is a little bit treacherous, and the damp corridor looks a little imposing. The corridor takes a sharp right at the base of the stairs, and the hallway it opens into is lit mostly by skylights built into the sidewalk. There are 2 large chambers and 1 'chamber' that is closer to an extension of the corridor than an actual room. This smallest area, ironically, contains the most icons. One of the larger rooms has a couple of icons and a bench, and the other has a holy water fount and two icons of its own. Although it isn't mentioned in my Lonely Planet chapter on Thessaloniki, this actually seemed to be a popular site. I spent a few minutes outside the catacombs talking to an older woman about the site - she spoke only 3 words of English, and I speak only about 8 words of Greek (and none relate well to catacombs). It's amazing how much communication can be accomplished speaking completely different languages. I picked out a few new words (katacombi, for example, means catacombs). Her hand gestures, combined with my memory of the icons in the catacombs, managed to convey that the site is dedicated to a saint who was beheaded for his faith.
My aim at this point in the day was to get back to the church in time for the evening service, which I thought was at 17:00. I managed to find my way back, again by complete luck combined with a very vague and generalized sense of 'its uphill and to my left.' All the photo opportunities along the way nearly conspired to make me late - but I made it to the monastery with 25 minutes to spare. The bookstore was actually open when I arrived, so I wandered in and attempted conversation with the cashier (not as much luck here as with the older woman). I did manage to ascertain that I was 2 1/2 hours early - the service didn't begin until 19:00. This proved to be a blessing in disguise - I now had time to grab another of those excellent gyro pita sandwiches, this time with all the toppings. Few things in this life can beat a good pork gyro on pita, loaded with fresh tomatoes, onions, mustard, french fries (weird, yes), and good tzatziki (yogurt 'sauce' with cucumbers and garlic). Its a messy but unbelievably tasty treat, and at only 2.5 euro, they aren't expensive by any means.
After following the ancient wall for about another 1/2 km, grabbing some Greek coffee (nearly espresso strength coffee, served about 2 ounces at a time, with the grounds left in the bottom of the cup), I made my way back to the monastery in plenty of time for mass. I realized once I got there that I should have done my homework before showing up for a service. I had no idea why everyone that came in was lighting between 1 and 3 candles and placing them in trays of sand located in various places near the icons. An emergency call to Jonathan solved that dilemma - if I caught what he said correctly, they are in remembrance of loved ones who have died, and also in veneration of the saints. I dropped a few Euro into the offering tray and lit a couple of candles of my own, and sat down in one of the very old 'pews', actually individual seats with very tall, double decker arms (one high enough to support yourself with your arms while standing, or that's what I assume its for).
The church, unfortunately for those reading this, does not allow photography inside. I am actually somewhat glad they don't - somehow photography in such a place seems disrespectful. The building itself is fairly plain, one tall dome in the middle with construction typical of the time surrounding it. The nearly 700 year old wooden supports for the roof are still present, some more so than others. One support was actually warped by maybe 18", but it appears to have been built that way - perhaps as a powerful and tangible symbol that for God, even the less than perfect serve an important role. Or perhaps I simply read too much into it. There are masonry and cement walls inside the church that support the dome, and these are adorned with the remains frescoes depicting biblical scenes as well as some scenes from the lives of saints associated with the church. There are large piece of the frescoes missing but those that have clung together are both inspiring and beautiful. At the front of the church there is a very intricately carved wooden 'wall' or screen separating the altar and main crucifix from the rest of the church, and it is from this 'room' that the priest and his assistants administered most of the service. Worked into this wooden wall are spaces for several more icons, which add both color and mystery to the screen.
The service consisted mostly of hymns and chants performed by the priest and a couple other ministers of some sort (I am almost certain one was a layman of some sort). Although I didn't understand a word of it, the service still managed to give me goosebumps a few times, from the combination of beautiful chants and the sensation of being in such an ancient and holy place. No matter where you are in the church, at least one icon is always visible, lending the idea that God is always watching a somewhat more literal interpretation.
My walk back followed the castle wall for the most part - I'm not sure how long it actually is, but I know it has to be more than 4 km - I've followed it at least that far. And in typical Greek fashion, modern dwellings are actually built onto the wall in places. The entire wall predates the discovery of the Western hemisphere by Europeans, and the fourth wall of a few dozen run down homes is actually an ancient castle wall.
I think that's enough for tonight - I could go on forever, but few will read as much as I've already written. Besides, if I write it all down, what reason does anyone have to actually talk to me?! I jest, of course.
Picture explanations:
1. Rotunda
2. Alexander the Great statue
3. White Tower (holy perspective Batman, I look really tall here)
4. Vlatadon Catholikon
5. Entrance to Vlatadon Monastery
6. "Why yes, my living room wall also doubles as an ancient fortification, why do you ask?"
7. More of the Kastro wall
8. View from the Kastro. Look closely in the center and you can see the Rotunda trying to look inconspicuous.
9. Another view of the Kastro Wall and a road I can't pronounce properly
10. View of Thessaloniki and its port from the wall
11. The hall and courtyard of the Vlatadon Monastery
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